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Glossary · word list

English terms: Fabrics & Sewing

659 words and terms, A–Z, from School Launch lessons. Each links to the lesson where it is taught.

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⅞ ruleEnglish
For HSTs made from squares, cut the squares the finished size plus ⅞ in.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.3 (grade 9–12)
60-30-10English
A decorator's rule of thumb for distributing a scheme: about 60% of the visible room in the dominant color, 30% in the secondary, 10% in the accent.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 1.2 (grade 9–12)

A

abrasion resistanceEnglish
A fabric's ability to withstand rubbing before yarns break or wear through.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 1.3 (grade 9–12) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.2 (grade 9–12)
acid dyeEnglish
A dye that bonds ionically to protein fibers and nylon in an acidic bath.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.2 (grade 9–12)
acrylicEnglish
A synthetic fiber made mostly of polyacrylonitrile, spun from solution; soft, light and wool-like.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.3 (grade 9–12)
adjustable ringEnglish
A loop of yarn worked into and then pulled tight, so the center of a circle closes with no hole. Many patterns and videos call it a “magic ring.”
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 5.2 (grade 6–8)
afterglowEnglish
A red glow that creeps along a cellulose fiber after the flame goes out.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.5 (grade 9–12)
aging (breaking down)English
Making a new costume look worn and lived-in, to suit the character.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.3 (grade 9–12)
agletEnglish
The hard little tip on the end of a shoelace that makes it easy to poke through a hole.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 3.1 (grade 9–12)
album quiltEnglish
A quilt of different blocks, often signed, made by several people as a gift or keepsake.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.1 (grade 9–12)
alpacaEnglish
The fiber of the alpaca, a South American camelid; it has little grease and many fibers have a partly hollow core.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.4 (grade 9–12)
alterationEnglish
Changing the size or shape of a finished garment to improve its fit.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.2 (grade 9–12)
alteration allowanceEnglish
Extra-wide seam allowances (often 1–2 in) left in costumes so they can be let out for future actors.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.2 (grade 9–12)
amide linkEnglish
The –CO–NH– group that joins units in nylon (and, in a different form, in wool and silk proteins); amide groups on neighboring chains hydrogen-bond strongly.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.2 (grade 9–12)
amigurumiEnglish
A Japanese word for small stuffed animals or dolls crocheted or knitted in tight rounds.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 5.2 (grade 6–8)
amorphous regionEnglish
A part of a fiber where chains are loosely and irregularly arranged. Water and dyes enter here.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.2 (grade 9–12)
analogous schemeEnglish
Two to four neighboring hues on the wheel, such as blue, blue-green and green. Restful because the colors share a parent.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 1.2 (grade 9–12)
area shrinkageEnglish
The percent loss of a fabric's area: 1 minus (new length × new width) ÷ (old length × old width), times 100%.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.3 (grade 9–12)
Arts and Crafts movementEnglish
A design movement of the 1860s–1890s, led in England by William Morris, that prized honest handwork, natural patterns and well-made ordinary things.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 1.1 (grade 9–12)

B

backstitch (machine)English
A few stitches sewn in reverse at the start and end of a seam to lock it so it cannot pull out.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 4.2 (grade 3–5)
backward scheduleEnglish
A schedule made by starting from the opening date and counting back the time each task needs.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.5 (grade 9–12)
bagging (a lining)English
Sewing a lining to a garment's edges right sides together and turning it through an opening, so the lining acts as a facing.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.4 (grade 9–12)
balanced tensionEnglish
Tension at which the two threads lock in the middle of the fabric, so neither shows on the other side.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.2 (grade 9–12)
balanced yarnEnglish
A plied yarn whose ply twist cancels the singles' twist so it hangs in a loop without kinking.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.5 (grade 9–12)
baleEnglish
A tightly pressed, wrapped block of cotton lint, about 500 pounds, ready to be shipped to a mill.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 1.1 (grade 3–5) · Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 1.1 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.1 (grade 9–12)
ballpoint needleEnglish
A needle with a rounded tip that slips between knit loops instead of piercing and breaking them.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.1 (grade 9–12)
bar tackEnglish
A few stitches laid across the end of a buttonhole and covered with tight stitches, so the slit cannot tear further.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 3.2 (grade 6–8)
basis weightEnglish
The mass per area of a nonwoven, in g/m², the same measure as fabric weight.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.5 (grade 9–12)
bast fiberEnglish
A fiber from the inner bark of a plant's stem: flax, hemp, jute, ramie, kenaf.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.4 (grade 9–12)
basting stitchEnglish
The machine's longest stitch, used to hold a seam temporarily so it can be pulled out easily.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.2 (grade 9–12)
bath ratioEnglish
The ratio of the dye bath's water weight to the fiber's weight, such as 30:1.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.1 (grade 9–12)
bearded needleEnglish
A needle with a long, springy hook (the beard) that a presser bar closes so the old loop can slide over it. Lee’s frame used bearded needles.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 6.4 (grade 6–8)
beatingEnglish
Pushing each new row down snug against the row before, with your fingers or a fork.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 2.2 (grade 9–12)
bed skirt (dust ruffle)English
A skirt that hangs from under the mattress to the floor, hiding the box spring and bed frame.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.5 (grade 9–12)
beginning-of-round markerEnglish
A stitch marker (often a different color) placed at the start of the round so you can count rounds.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 6.2 (grade 6–8)
bench baseEnglish
A plywood top with legs or a frame, padded and covered.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.5 (grade 9–12)
bending lengthEnglish
A measure of fabric stiffness from the cantilever test: half the length of fabric that overhangs a table edge before it droops to a set angle.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.1 (grade 9–12)
bias edgeEnglish
A cut edge running diagonally to the grain, which stretches easily.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.3 (grade 9–12)
bib apronEnglish
An apron that covers the chest as well as the lap, held up by a strap around the neck.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 8.2 (grade 3–5)
bind off (BO)English
Finishing the last row by lifting each stitch over the next so the loops are locked and cannot unravel.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 6.2 (grade 3–5)
blackout liningEnglish
A lining coated or woven so densely that it blocks nearly all light.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 7.2 (grade 6–8) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.4 (grade 9–12)
blanket stitchEnglish
An edging stitch that makes a row of little L shapes along the edge, used to finish blankets and to join felt.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 3.4 (grade 3–5)
blending sizesEnglish
Drawing a smooth line from one size's cutting line to another's where a body falls between sizes.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.1 (grade 9–12)
blind hemEnglish
A hem stitched so that only tiny, nearly invisible stitches show on the right side.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.5 (grade 9–12)
blind hem stitchEnglish
A hemming stitch worked just under the edge of the hem allowance, catching one or two threads of the outer fabric, so the stitches are hidden on both sides.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 3.1 (grade 6–8)
block printingEnglish
Printing cloth by pressing a carved, inked wooden block onto it, one impression at a time, one block per color.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.3 (grade 9–12)
blockingEnglish
Wetting a finished knitted piece and letting it dry flat in its final shape, so the stitches even out and it holds its size.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 6.4 (grade 6–8)
bobbin laceEnglish
Lace made by crossing and twisting many threads wound on bobbins, held in place with pins on a pillow.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.5 (grade 9–12)
body measurementEnglish
A measurement of the person, taken over light clothing with the tape snug but not tight.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.2 (grade 9–12)
bollEnglish
The round seed pod of the cotton plant. When it opens, it shows fluffy white cotton fibers wrapped around the seeds.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 1.1 (grade 3–5) · Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 1.1 (grade 6–8) · Threads & Weaving, Lesson 1.2 (grade 9–12) · +1 more
bookmarkEnglish
A strip you put in a book to keep your place.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 5.3 (grade 9–12)
box cushionEnglish
A cushion with a top and bottom (plates) joined by a band (boxing) so the sides stand straight.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.4 (grade 9–12)
box depthEnglish
The width of the bag’s flat bottom from front to back, equal to the length of the line sewn across the corner.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 4.4 (grade 6–8)
box pleatEnglish
A pleat with two folds turned away from each other, making a flat box on the face.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.4 (grade 9–12)
boxed cornerEnglish
A bag corner flattened into a triangle and sewn straight across, giving the bag a flat bottom with depth.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 4.4 (grade 6–8)
boxingEnglish
The band of fabric that forms the cushion's sides.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.4 (grade 9–12)
braided, knitted and woven elasticEnglish
Braided elastic narrows when stretched and suits casings; knitted is soft and stays the same width; woven (non-roll) is firm and resists rolling.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.2 (grade 9–12)
brimEnglish
The bottom band of a hat, often worked in a firmer stitch or ribbing so it holds snugly.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 5.4 (grade 6–8)
brocadeEnglish
A rich fabric with a raised woven pattern, often in silk.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 2.3 (grade 3–5)
buckramEnglish
A stiff woven interfacing, usually 4 in deep, sewn into the heading to hold the pleats upright.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.5 (grade 9–12)
budget allocationEnglish
Dividing the total money across the project's parts on purpose, before spending, instead of discovering the division afterward.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 1.5 (grade 9–12)
burlap (hessian)English
Coarse jute cloth stretched over springs or webbing to hold the stuffing.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.1 (grade 9–12) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.3 (grade 9–12)
burn testEnglish
Identifying a fiber by how it approaches, burns in and leaves a flame, its smell, and its ash or bead. Done only with a parent beside you.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.5 (grade 9–12)
button spacingEnglish
The even distance between buttons, set from the top and bottom buttons and divided equally.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.5 (grade 9–12)
buttonhole stitchEnglish
A stitch that forms a little knot (purl) at the edge of the slit with every stitch, packing tightly so the cut edge cannot fray.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 3.2 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.5 (grade 9–12)

C

cabled yarnEnglish
Plied yarns plied again, as in heavy cords and some threads.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.5 (grade 9–12)
café curtainEnglish
A short curtain that covers only the lower half of a window, letting light in at the top.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 7.2 (grade 3–5)
calico and chintzEnglish
Printed and painted cottons from India (calico from Calicut); chintz was often glazed and brightly colored.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.3 (grade 9–12)
cambric (dust cover)English
A thin, usually black fabric stapled under a seat to hide the raw edges and keep dust in.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 7.4 (grade 6–8) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.5 (grade 9–12)
canvas (duck)English
A heavy, tightly woven plain-weave cotton used for bags, tents and sails.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 4.4 (grade 6–8)
cardboard loomEnglish
A piece of stiff cardboard with little notches at the top and bottom to hold the warp yarn tight.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 2.2 (grade 9–12)
care labelEnglish
Instructions for cleaning a textile; for a slipcover, you write your own.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.5 (grade 9–12)
Care Labeling RuleEnglish
A Federal Trade Commission rule, first issued in 1971, requiring most clothing sold in the United States to carry permanent care instructions for at least one safe method of cleaning.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.5 (grade 9–12)
cashmereEnglish
The very fine soft undercoat (down) of cashmere goats, separated from the coarse outer guard hair by combing and dehairing.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.4 (grade 9–12)
cast on (CO)English
Putting the first row of loops onto the needle.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 6.1 (grade 3–5)
catch stitchEnglish
A crisscross stitch worked from left to right (for right-handers) that holds a hem flat while letting it stretch a little. Good for knits and heavy fabrics.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 3.1 (grade 6–8)
center panelEnglish
When piecing, a full width in the middle with half widths at each side, so no seam runs down the center of the bed.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.4 (grade 9–12)
centered zipperEnglish
A zipper set in a seam with the two folded edges meeting over its center and stitching on both sides.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.3 (grade 9–12)
center-out staplingEnglish
Stapling at the centers of opposite sides first, then working toward the corners.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.5 (grade 9–12)
chainEnglish
A line of loops, each one pulled through the one before.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 5.1 (grade 9–12)
chain (ch)English
The first and simplest crochet stitch: yarn over the hook and pull it through the loop already on the hook. A row of chains is the start of most projects.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 5.1 (grade 3–5)
chain piecingEnglish
Feeding pairs of pieces through the machine one after another without cutting the thread between them.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.2 (grade 9–12)
chain space (ch-sp)English
The gap made by one or more chains. In the next round, you work into the space, not into the chains themselves.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 5.4 (grade 3–5) · Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 5.3 (grade 6–8)
checksEnglish
Squares of color in rows, like a checkerboard. Checks with crossing stripes are called plaid.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 8.1 (grade 9–12)
Christmas pageantEnglish
A play that tells the story of Jesus’s birth.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 8.3 (grade 9–12)
chunky yarnEnglish
Very thick yarn, also called bulky. It makes big loops that are easy to see.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 5.2 (grade 9–12)
circular needleEnglish
Two short needle tips joined by a flexible cable. A 16-inch circular needle is the right length for a hat.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 6.2 (grade 6–8)
clapperEnglish
A smooth hardwood block pressed onto steamed fabric; the wood absorbs heat and moisture so the fabric cools under pressure and holds a sharp crease.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.5 (grade 9–12)
classingEnglish
Sorting fleeces into lines of similar diameter, length, strength and color so buyers get even lots.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.2 (grade 9–12)
clean yieldEnglish
The mass of clean wool from scouring, as a percent of the greasy (raw) mass.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.2 (grade 9–12)
clipEnglish
A small straight cut into the seam allowance of an inward (concave) curve, almost to the stitching, so it can spread and lie flat.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 4.2 (grade 6–8)
clip and notchEnglish
Clipping (slits) lets inward (concave) curves spread; notching (removing wedges) lets outward (convex) curves lie flat without bulk.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.4 (grade 9–12)
clip the cornersEnglish
Cutting across the seam allowance at a corner, close to (not through) the stitching, so the corner turns out sharp.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 7.1 (grade 3–5)
clothes moths and carpet beetlesEnglish
Insects whose larvae eat keratin (wool, silk, fur), especially when soiled; clean storage and inspection prevent damage.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.4 (grade 9–12)
clothingEnglish
Things we wear that cover us, keep us warm and protect us.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 8.2 (grade 9–12)
clove hitchEnglish
The knot used to tie twine to each spring's top coil.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.2 (grade 9–12)
coat of many colorsEnglish
The special coat Jacob made for Joseph, a sign of his love.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 8.4 (grade 9–12)
coat of many coloursEnglish
The special coat Jacob made for his son Joseph (Genesis 37:3). The words in the original language of Genesis may describe a long coat with sleeves, a costly garment that showed Jacob’s love.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 8.4 (grade 3–5)
coat of skinsEnglish
A coat made from animal skins. God made coats of skins for Adam and Eve.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 8.2 (grade 9–12)
cocoonEnglish
The case a silkworm spins around itself from one very long thread of silk before it changes into a moth.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 1.3 (grade 3–5) · Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 1.3 (grade 6–8) · Threads & Weaving, Lesson 1.3 (grade 9–12)
coil springEnglish
A spiral steel spring set upright in a seat to give it bounce and support.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.1 (grade 9–12)
coil zipperEnglish
A zipper whose teeth are a continuous nylon spiral; flexible and sold by the yard for cushions.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.2 (grade 9–12)
colorfastnessEnglish
A dyed fabric's resistance to losing or changing color in washing, light, rubbing (crocking) or perspiration.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.2 (grade 9–12)
comfort factorEnglish
The percent of fibers in a sample that are 30 µm or finer. Fibers coarser than about 30 µm press into the skin and cause prickle.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.2 (grade 9–12)
complementary and analogousEnglish
Complementary colors sit opposite each other on the color wheel (blue and orange). Analogous colors sit next to each other (blue, blue-green, green).
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 8.1 (grade 6–8)
condensation polymerizationEnglish
Joining monomers into a chain by a reaction that also releases a small molecule, usually water.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.2 (grade 9–12)
construction logEnglish
A dated record of each work session: what was done, how long, problems and fixes.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.5 (grade 9–12) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.5 (grade 9–12) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.5 (grade 9–12)
continuous biasEnglish
One long bias strip cut from a square that has been sewn into a tube, avoiding many short joins.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.3 (grade 9–12)
copperplate printingEnglish
Printing from engraved copper plates, which allowed fine lines and large single-color scenes on cloth.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.3 (grade 9–12)
cordless lift systemEnglish
A commercial spring or clutch mechanism that raises and lowers a shade by hand on the bottom rail, with no exposed cords.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.1 (grade 9–12)
core-spun threadEnglish
A thread with a continuous polyester filament core wrapped in cotton or polyester staple, combining strength with a soft surface.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.5 (grade 9–12)
core-spun yarnEnglish
A yarn with a stretched spandex filament in the center wrapped by cotton or other staple fibers, so the fabric feels like cotton but stretches.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.4 (grade 9–12)
corner blocksEnglish
Wooden blocks glued and screwed inside a frame's corners to strengthen the joints.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.1 (grade 9–12)
corner tiesEnglish
Fabric ties sewn inside the cover's corners and tied to the duvet's corners so it cannot shift.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.4 (grade 9–12)
cornice boardEnglish
A rigid box of wood or foam board, padded and covered in fabric, mounted across the top of a window.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.2 (grade 9–12)
cost per wearEnglish
A garment's total cost (price plus care and repairs) divided by the number of times it is worn.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.4 (grade 9–12)
cost per yardEnglish
The price of fabric for one running yard off the bolt. To compare fabrics fairly you must also look at the width of the bolt.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 1.1 (grade 6–8)
cost per year of serviceEnglish
Price divided by expected years of use; the honest way to compare a cheap fabric with a durable one.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 1.4 (grade 9–12)
costumeEnglish
Clothing worn to play a character in a play, pageant or history day.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 8.3 (grade 3–5) · Threads & Weaving, Lesson 8.3 (grade 9–12)
costume plotEnglish
A chart of which character wears which costume in which scene.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.3 (grade 9–12) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.5 (grade 9–12)
costume stockEnglish
A theater's or church's stored collection of costumes, reused and altered for new productions.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.2 (grade 9–12)
cottonEnglish
A soft, fluffy fiber that grows on the cotton plant, around its seeds.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 1.2 (grade 9–12)
cotton count (Ne)English
The number of 840-yard hanks in one pound of yarn. A 30s cotton yarn has 30 × 840 yd in a pound.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.4 (grade 9–12)
cotton felt / battingEnglish
Padding layers that soften the top and smooth out lumps.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.3 (grade 9–12)
cotton ginEnglish
A machine that pulls cotton fibers away from the seeds. “Gin” is short for “engine.”
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 1.1 (grade 3–5)
course and waleEnglish
A course is a crosswise row of loops; a wale is a lengthwise column of loops.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.4 (grade 9–12)
crewelEnglish
Embroidery worked with fine, two-ply wool yarn (crewel wool), usually on linen.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 3.4 (grade 6–8)
crochetEnglish
Making fabric by pulling loops of yarn through other loops with a hook. Say it “kro-SHAY.” It comes from a French word for a little hook.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 5.1 (grade 3–5) · Threads & Weaving, Lesson 5.1 (grade 9–12)
crochet hookEnglish
A smooth stick with a little hook at one end, for pulling loops of yarn through other loops.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 5.2 (grade 9–12)
crockingEnglish
The transfer of color from a fabric by rubbing.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.5 (grade 9–12)
crosswise grainEnglish
The direction of the weft, from selvage to selvage. It stretches a little more than the lengthwise grain.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 2.2 (grade 6–8)
crotch curveEnglish
The curved seam at the top of a pant leg piece, deeper in back than in front.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.5 (grade 9–12)
crotch seamEnglish
The curved seam that joins the two legs of pants from the front waist to the back waist. It is sewn twice for strength.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 8.4 (grade 3–5) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.2 (grade 9–12)
crown bandEnglish
The strip that goes around the head in a crown, sized to the head circumference.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.4 (grade 9–12)
crystalline regionEnglish
A part of a fiber where polymer chains are packed in a regular, tightly bonded order. Strong and stiff; water cannot easily enter.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.2 (grade 9–12)
cuffEnglish
The wide band of fabric at the open end of a pillowcase.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 4.4 (grade 3–5)
curtain rodEnglish
A pole that a curtain hangs from.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 7.2 (grade 9–12)
cut lengthEnglish
The finished length plus the fabric needed for the heading and the bottom hem.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 7.1 (grade 6–8) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.2 (grade 9–12)
cut on the foldEnglish
Cutting fabric while it is folded, so both halves come out exactly the same and there is no seam along the fold.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 8.3 (grade 3–5)
cuticle scalesEnglish
Thin overlapping cells covering a wool fiber like shingles on a roof, all pointing toward the tip.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.1 (grade 9–12)
cutting plan (layout)English
A to-scale drawing of the pieces laid on the fabric's width, showing the length needed.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.2 (grade 9–12)

D

damask and brocadeEnglish
Patterned fabrics woven on Jacquard (or older draw) looms: damask is reversible, with satin and sateen figures; brocade adds extra weft patterns.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.3 (grade 9–12)
darningEnglish
Mending a hole by weaving new yarn across it: first a row of threads in one direction, then weaving over and under them in the other.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 3.3 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.3 (grade 9–12)
darning eggEnglish
A smooth wooden egg or mushroom shape slipped inside a sock to hold the worn part taut while you darn.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 3.3 (grade 6–8)
dartEnglish
A stitched, tapering fold that takes out fullness so flat cloth can curve.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.1 (grade 9–12) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.1 (grade 9–12)
dart legs and pointEnglish
The two stitching lines of a dart (equal in length) and the place where they meet and vanish.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.1 (grade 9–12)
decorative nails (nailheads)English
Upholstery nails with round heads set in a row, as fastener and trim.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.4 (grade 9–12)
decorator (home-décor) fabricEnglish
Fabric made for furnishings: usually 54 inches wide, heavier, tightly woven, often stain-finished, sold where upholstery and drapery goods are sold.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 1.3 (grade 9–12)
decrease (sc2tog)English
Two stitches worked together into one, taking away one stitch.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 5.2 (grade 6–8)
degree of polymerization (DP)English
The number of repeating units in one polymer chain. Cotton cellulose often has a DP around 10,000; viscose rayon only a few hundred.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.1 (grade 9–12)
degummingEnglish
Boiling raw silk gently in soapy water to remove sericin, leaving soft, shining fibroin.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.5 (grade 9–12)
dehairingEnglish
Machine separation of fine down from coarse guard hairs, essential for cashmere and camel hair.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.4 (grade 9–12)
denier per filament (dpf)English
The denier of a yarn divided by the number of filaments in it; a measure of fiber fineness.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.5 (grade 9–12)
depth of shadeEnglish
The mass of dye as a percent of the fiber's mass; one percent gives a medium shade for many dyes, 4% a deep one.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.2 (grade 9–12)
design boardEnglish
A presentation of the design: sketches or plan, color scheme, swatches and notes.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.5 (grade 9–12)
design easeEnglish
Extra room added for style, such as the fullness of a gathered skirt or a loose tunic.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 8.4 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.2 (grade 9–12)
designerEnglish
A person who plans how something will look before it is made.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 8.1 (grade 9–12)
developable surfaceEnglish
A surface that can be flattened without stretching or tearing, such as a box side, a cylinder or a cone.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.1 (grade 9–12)
differential feedEnglish
Two sets of feed dogs moving at different speeds, to prevent stretching knits or to gather fabric.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.4 (grade 9–12)
direct count systemEnglish
A system giving weight per fixed length: the bigger the number, the heavier the yarn. Tex and denier are direct.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.4 (grade 9–12)
directional friction effectEnglish
Wool fibers slide more easily toward their root than toward their tip because of the scales, so agitation walks them in one direction and locks them together.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.3 (grade 9–12)
disperse dyeEnglish
A small, nearly insoluble dye that dissolves into hydrophobic fibers such as polyester and acetate at high temperature.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.2 (grade 9–12)
display cardEnglish
A small card set beside a finished piece that tells what it is, what it is made of, and what the maker learned.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 8.4 (grade 3–5) · Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 8.4 (grade 6–8) · Threads & Weaving, Lesson 8.4 (grade 9–12)
disulfide bondEnglish
A strong sulfur-to-sulfur link between two chains of keratin, made by the amino acid cystine; it gives wool its springy resilience.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.1 (grade 9–12)
dog earsEnglish
The thin, pointed corners a square cover gets when it is stuffed; caused by the center bulging and pulling each side inward.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.1 (grade 9–12)
DorcasEnglish
A woman in the Bible, also called Tabitha, who was full of good works and sewed for people in need.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 3.4 (grade 9–12)
double crochet (dc)English
A taller stitch: yarn over, insert the hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops), yarn over and pull through 2, yarn over and pull through the last 2.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 5.3 (grade 3–5)
double hemEnglish
A hem turned up twice by the same amount so no raw edge shows; drapery hems are often a double 4 in.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.2 (grade 9–12)
double knotEnglish
A knot tied twice, so it holds tight.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 7.4 (grade 9–12)
double rubEnglish
One back-and-forth rub in a wear test. Fabrics for seats should take 15,000 double rubs or more.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 7.4 (grade 6–8) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 1.3 (grade 9–12)
double weltEnglish
Two cords wrapped side by side in one fabric strip, glued over staples where fabric meets show wood.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.4 (grade 9–12)
double-ended (fisheye) dartEnglish
A dart pointed at both ends and widest in the middle, used to shape a waist in a one-piece garment.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.1 (grade 9–12)
double-fold (French) bindingEnglish
A strip folded in half lengthwise before sewing, so two layers protect the edge.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.5 (grade 9–12)
double-pleat cornerEnglish
Two folds meeting at the corner; used on rounded or deep corners.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.5 (grade 9–12)
doubletEnglish
A close-fitting padded jacket worn by men in the Tudor and Elizabethan periods.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.3 (grade 9–12)
doubly curved surfaceEnglish
A surface curved in two directions at once, like a ball or a rounded seat front, which flat cloth cannot cover without seams, darts or ease.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.1 (grade 9–12)
draftingEnglish
Drawing fibers out from a mass of roving so that only a thin, even stream of them passes into the twist.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 2.1 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.1 (grade 9–12) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.5 (grade 9–12)
drag linesEnglish
Diagonal wrinkles that point toward a place where the garment is too tight or too short.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.4 (grade 9–12)
drapesEnglish
Heavier, often lined curtains that hang to the floor and can be drawn closed to block light and drafts.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 7.2 (grade 3–5)
drapes (draperies)English
Heavier, usually lined curtains, often floor-length, that can be drawn closed.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 7.2 (grade 6–8)
draw boyEnglish
Before Jacquard, a helper who sat on top of a pattern loom and pulled up groups of warp threads by hand for each row.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 2.3 (grade 3–5)
drawingEnglish
Stretching a newly spun filament to several times its length so the chains line up and crystallize, making it much stronger.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.2 (grade 9–12)
dress paradeEnglish
Showing every costume on its actor under the lights before dress rehearsal, to check fit and look.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.5 (grade 9–12)
dresserEnglish
A backstage helper who assists actors with quick changes.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.2 (grade 9–12)
dressing (training) drapesEnglish
Folding the hanging drapes into even folds and tying them loosely for a day or two so they learn to hang that way.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.5 (grade 9–12)
dropEnglish
The distance from the top of the box spring to the floor (minus clearance).
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.5 (grade 9–12)
drop spindleEnglish
A stick with a weight called a whorl, spun by hand to twist fibers into yarn.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 1.2 (grade 3–5) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.1 (grade 9–12)
drop-in (slip) seatEnglish
A padded seat on its own frame or board that lifts out of the chair frame and is held by screws or by fit.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.1 (grade 9–12)
dropped stitchEnglish
A live stitch that has slipped off the needle and may run down the fabric, leaving a ladder of loose strands.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 6.2 (grade 3–5)
dry spinningEnglish
Spinning a polymer dissolved in a solvent into warm air, which evaporates the solvent; acetate, spandex and some acrylics are dry-spun.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.3 (grade 9–12)
durable pressEnglish
A finish that cross-links cellulose chains so cotton resists wrinkling and holds pressed creases through washing; also called permanent press or wrinkle-resistant.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.4 (grade 9–12)
dust cover (cambric)English
The thin black fabric stapled under a seat to hide the work and keep dust in.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.1 (grade 9–12)
duvetEnglish
A soft, thick quilt filled with down, feathers or fiberfill, used inside a removable cover.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.4 (grade 9–12)
duvet coverEnglish
A large fabric envelope that holds the duvet and is washed like a sheet.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.4 (grade 9–12)
dye uptakeEnglish
How much dye a fiber absorbs from a dye bath under the same conditions; deeper color means more uptake.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.3 (grade 9–12)

E

ease of removalEnglish
How easily a cover comes off and goes back on; the whole purpose of a slipcover.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.5 (grade 9–12)
edge (front edge) comfortEnglish
Padding that keeps the seat front from pressing into the backs of the legs.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.4 (grade 9–12)
edge rollEnglish
A firm roll along the front edge of a seat that keeps its shape and protects the sitter's legs.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.1 (grade 9–12) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.3 (grade 9–12)
eight-way tieEnglish
Tying each spring to its neighbors front–back, side–side and on both diagonals, so twine leaves it in eight directions.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.2 (grade 9–12)
elastomerEnglish
A polymer that can stretch to several times its length and spring back, like rubber.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.4 (grade 9–12)
elements of designEnglish
The raw materials a designer arranges: line, shape, color, texture and pattern.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 1.1 (grade 9–12)
Elias HoweEnglish
An American inventor who built a sewing machine with the needle’s eye near the point and got a patent for it in 1846.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 4.4 (grade 9–12)
elongationEnglish
How much a fiber or fabric lengthens under a load, as a percent of its original length.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.4 (grade 9–12)
embroidery hoopEnglish
Two rings that hold fabric tight like a drum while you embroider.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 3.4 (grade 3–5)
ends and picksEnglish
Ends are warp yarns; picks are weft yarns. Ends per inch plus picks per inch is the thread count.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 2.3 (grade 6–8) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.3 (grade 9–12)
ends and picks per inch (EPI, PPI)English
The number of warp yarns and weft yarns in one inch of fabric.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.2 (grade 9–12)
envelope closureEnglish
Two back pieces that overlap like the flap of an envelope, so the pillow slides in and out with no zipper or buttons.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 7.1 (grade 3–5)
eye-pointed needleEnglish
A needle with the eye near the point, so the machine can push thread through the cloth without passing the whole needle through.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.1 (grade 9–12)

F

fabric efficiencyEnglish
The percent of the fabric area used by pattern pieces in a layout.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.3 (grade 9–12)
fabric weightEnglish
Mass per area of cloth, given in ounces per square yard (oz/yd²) or grams per square meter (g/m², also written gsm).
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 1.3 (grade 9–12) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.2 (grade 9–12)
face and backEnglish
The right side and the wrong side of a fabric; in twills and satins they look different.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.2 (grade 9–12)
face fabricEnglish
The decorative fabric on the room side of a curtain.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 7.2 (grade 6–8)
facingEnglish
A shaped piece sewn to an edge (neckline, armhole, front) and turned inside to finish it cleanly.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.4 (grade 9–12)
fasten offEnglish
Cutting the yarn and pulling the tail through the last loop so the work cannot unravel.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 5.2 (grade 3–5)
faux (stationary) Roman shadeEnglish
A shade with its folds fixed in place, mounted like a valance; it does not raise or lower and has no lift cords.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.1 (grade 9–12)
feed dogs and presser footEnglish
The toothed bars under the needle that move fabric forward, and the foot that holds fabric against them.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.1 (grade 9–12)
felt stripEnglish
A long, narrow piece of felt, the base of your bookmark.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 5.3 (grade 9–12)
feltingEnglish
Locking wool fibers permanently together with moisture, heat, soap and rubbing, so the scales catch and the fibers cannot slide back.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 1.2 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.3 (grade 9–12)
fiber content labelEnglish
The label required by U.S. law listing each fiber by generic name and percent by weight, in order of predominance.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.5 (grade 9–12)
fiberfillEnglish
Soft, fluffy stuffing made by people from polyester. It washes well and stays fluffy.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 7.1 (grade 9–12) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.5 (grade 9–12)
fiber-reactive dyeEnglish
A dye that forms a covalent chemical bond with cellulose (cotton, linen, rayon), giving excellent wash fastness.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.2 (grade 9–12)
fibroinEnglish
The protein of the silk filament itself; its chains fold into tightly packed sheets that make silk strong and lustrous.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.5 (grade 9–12)
filament and stapleEnglish
Filament: continuous fiber. Staple: fiber cut into short lengths (often 1½ to 3 inches) and crimped so it can be spun like cotton or wool.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.3 (grade 9–12)
fill powerEnglish
The volume in cubic inches that one ounce of down fills under a standard test; higher means loftier.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.5 (grade 9–12)
fine linenEnglish
Smooth, strong cloth woven from flax.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 7.2 (grade 9–12)
fine twined linenEnglish
Linen thread spun very fine and twisted (twined) from several strands, then woven into strong, smooth cloth.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 7.2 (grade 3–5)
finger knittingEnglish
Knitting with your fingers instead of needles. It makes a soft, thick cord.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 6.1 (grade 9–12)
finished garment measurementsEnglish
The garment's own measurements printed on the pattern; finished minus body = ease.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.1 (grade 9–12) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.1 (grade 9–12)
finished lengthEnglish
The length of the curtain from the top of the heading (or the rod) to the hem, as it will hang.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.1 (grade 9–12)
finishingEnglish
The last steps that make a project ready to use: taking it off, locking the ends, tucking in the tails.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 6.4 (grade 9–12)
fitness for purposeEnglish
How well a garment does the job it is for: warmth, movement, washing, modesty, the occasion.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 8.4 (grade 6–8)
flame resistantEnglish
A fabric or finish that resists ignition and stops burning when the flame is removed.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.4 (grade 9–12)
flat-felled seamEnglish
A strong, flat seam in which one allowance is trimmed and the other folded over it and stitched down, enclosing both edges; used on jeans and work shirts.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.3 (grade 9–12)
flexural rigidityEnglish
A fabric's resistance to bending, calculated from its weight per area and the cube of its bending length.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.1 (grade 9–12)
flyerEnglish
The U-shaped arm on a spinning wheel that turns around the bobbin, adding twist and winding yarn on at the same time.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.1 (grade 9–12)
flying geeseEnglish
A rectangle made of one large triangle (the goose) and two small ones (the sky), twice as wide as tall.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.3 (grade 9–12)
foam densityEnglish
How firm upholstery foam is. Seats need high-density foam that springs back; soft foam flattens quickly.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 7.4 (grade 6–8) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.5 (grade 9–12)
fold depthEnglish
The depth of each fold when the shade is raised (or fixed), usually 3–5 in.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.1 (grade 9–12)
foundation chainEnglish
The first row of chains that all the other rows are built on.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 5.2 (grade 3–5)
frayEnglish
When threads come loose from a cut edge of woven cloth and hang or fall out.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 2.4 (grade 9–12)
fraying and sandingEnglish
Wearing edges and high points with sandpaper or a rasp so they look used.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.3 (grade 9–12)
fullingEnglish
Deliberately felting woven wool cloth to make it thicker, denser and warmer; also called walking or waulking.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.3 (grade 9–12)
fullnessEnglish
How much wider the curtain fabric is than the rod or window. A fullness of 2 means the fabric is twice as wide, so it hangs in soft folds.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 7.2 (grade 3–5) · Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 7.1 (grade 6–8) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.2 (grade 9–12)

G

gatheringEnglish
Drawing up fabric along a line of long stitches or over a cord to add fullness.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.5 (grade 9–12)
gimpEnglish
A narrow decorative braid glued or tacked over staples along an edge.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.4 (grade 9–12)
ginEnglish
Short for “engine”: a machine with toothed cylinders that pulls cotton fiber through a grate too narrow for the seeds, separating fiber from seed.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 1.1 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.1 (grade 9–12)
goresEnglish
Triangular panels set into seams to widen a garment's skirt without adding width at the shoulders.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.2 (grade 9–12)
gownEnglish
A long, loose outer robe worn by men of standing, often fur-lined.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.3 (grade 9–12)
grade ruleEnglish
The amount a pattern changes from one size to the next at a given point, such as 2 in of hip circumference per size.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.5 (grade 9–12)
graded patternEnglish
A pattern made in a range of sizes, each scaled up or down from a base size by set amounts.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 8.2 (grade 6–8) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.1 (grade 9–12) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.1 (grade 9–12)
grainlineEnglish
An arrow on a pattern piece that must lie parallel to the fabric’s selvage, so the garment hangs straight.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 8.1 (grade 3–5)
gristEnglish
A yarn's length per unit of weight, often given in yards per pound.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.3 (grade 9–12)
growth (permanent set)English
The part of a stretch that does not recover; a baggy knee in stretch pants is growth.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.4 (grade 9–12)
GSMEnglish
Grams per square meter, the weight of fabric. Lawn may be 70 GSM; quilting cotton about 140; denim 350 or more.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 2.3 (grade 6–8)

H

hacklingEnglish
Combing scutched flax through sets of metal pins to separate long line fibers from short, tangled tow.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.4 (grade 9–12)
hair canvasEnglish
A springy woven interfacing traditionally made with goat or horse hair in the weft, used in tailored coats to give resilient shape.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.1 (grade 9–12)
hairclothEnglish
A legendarily durable 19th-century seat covering woven with a cotton or linen warp and a weft of actual horsehair.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 1.3 (grade 9–12)
half double crochet (hdc)English
Yarn over, insert the hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3. It is between sc and dc in height.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 5.1 (grade 6–8)
half-circle cloakEnglish
A cloak cut as a half circle, with a small arc removed for the neck.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.3 (grade 9–12)
half-dropEnglish
A repeat in which each column of motifs is shifted down by half the vertical repeat, so motifs form a diagonal network instead of a grid.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.3 (grade 9–12)
half-drop matchEnglish
A repeat where the motif at one selvage falls half a repeat lower than at the other, so adjoining widths are offset.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.3 (grade 9–12)
half-square triangle (HST)English
A square made of two right triangles sewn along the diagonal.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.3 (grade 9–12)
hand-offEnglish
Delivering the finished work with care instructions and any spare parts or patterns.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.5 (grade 9–12)
handwheelEnglish
The wheel on the right side of the machine that raises and lowers the needle by hand. Always turn it toward you.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 4.1 (grade 3–5)
head circumferenceEnglish
The measurement around the head where a hat sits.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.4 (grade 9–12)
head coveringEnglish
A cloth worn over the head for modesty, sun and dust; for men often a cloth held by a band.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.1 (grade 9–12)
headboard panelEnglish
An upholstered board fixed to a bed frame or the wall behind a bed.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.5 (grade 9–12)
headpieceEnglish
A cloth worn over the head, held with a band, as shepherds and travelers wore against sun and dust.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 8.3 (grade 3–5) · Threads & Weaving, Lesson 8.3 (grade 9–12)
heddle and harnessEnglish
A heddle is a cord or wire with an eye that lifts one warp end; a harness (shaft) holds many heddles that rise together.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.1 (grade 9–12)
hemEnglish
A finished edge made by folding the raw edge under and sewing it down.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 3.3 (grade 3–5) · Threads & Weaving, Lesson 2.4 (grade 9–12)
hem allowanceEnglish
The amount of fabric turned up at the bottom of a garment to make the hem, often 1½ to 2 inches on pants and skirts.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 3.1 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.5 (grade 9–12)
hempEnglish
A strong, coarse bast fiber long used for rope, canvas and sailcloth.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.5 (grade 9–12)
high-density foamEnglish
Seat foam of about 2.5 lb/ft³ or more that keeps its shape for years (Lesson 2.5).
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.4 (grade 9–12)
hole punchEnglish
A tool that pushes a small round hole through paper or card. The adult uses it.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 3.1 (grade 9–12)
hood (chaperon)English
A medieval hood, often with a short shoulder piece and a long tail.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.2 (grade 9–12)
hook and eyeEnglish
A small metal hook and a loop (straight bar or round eye) sewn on opposite sides of an opening, used at waistbands and necklines.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 3.2 (grade 6–8)
hook-and-loop tapeEnglish
A fastener of two tapes, one with tiny hooks and one with loops, invented by George de Mestral.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.5 (grade 9–12)
Hooke's lawEnglish
For a spring, force = spring constant × compression: F = kx.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.1 (grade 9–12)
horizontal repeatEnglish
The distance across the fabric between repeats.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.3 (grade 9–12)
horsehair, coir, cotton battingEnglish
Traditional stuffings: animal hair, coconut fiber and cotton wadding.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.2 (grade 9–12)
hose / trunk hose / breechesEnglish
Leg coverings: fitted stockings, padded short breeches over them, or knee-length breeches.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.3 (grade 9–12)
housewifeEnglish
A small roll-up sewing kit, said by soldiers as “hussif,” carried by soldiers and travelers with needles, thread, buttons and a scrap of cloth.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 3.1 (grade 6–8)
hue, value and intensityEnglish
Hue is the color’s name; value is how light or dark it is; intensity is how bright or dull it is.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 8.1 (grade 6–8)

I

IFD (indentation force deflection)English
The force in pounds needed to press a foam sample down by 25% of its thickness; a measure of firmness, not quality.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.5 (grade 9–12)
increase (inc)English
Two stitches worked into the same stitch, adding one stitch to the round.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 5.2 (grade 6–8)
indirect count systemEnglish
A system giving length per fixed weight: the bigger the number, the finer the yarn. Cotton count, worsted count and metric count are indirect.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.4 (grade 9–12)
inseamEnglish
The seam along the inside of the leg, from the crotch to the hem. Its length tells you how long to make pants.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 8.1 (grade 3–5)
insertEnglish
The duvet itself when spoken of as the filling of the cover.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.4 (grade 9–12)
inside / outside mountEnglish
Inside: the treatment fits inside the window opening. Outside: it is mounted on the wall or frame around it.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.1 (grade 9–12)
intakeEnglish
The width of fabric a dart removes at its widest point.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.1 (grade 9–12)
interfacingEnglish
A supporting layer inside a garment that gives body and shape; it may be fused (glued by heat) or sewn in.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.1 (grade 9–12) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.4 (grade 9–12)
interliningEnglish
A soft middle layer, often flannel, between face and lining, for extra warmth and fullness.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 7.2 (grade 6–8) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.4 (grade 9–12)
interweavingEnglish
Weaving the crosswise strips over and under the lengthwise strips, so all share the load.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.3 (grade 9–12)
intimate blendEnglish
A yarn in which two or more fibers are mixed before spinning, so every inch contains both.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.5 (grade 9–12)
invisible mendingEnglish
Repairs made with matching threads or fabric so they are hard to see.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.3 (grade 9–12)
Irish crochetEnglish
A crocheted lace of separate motifs (roses, leaves, shamrocks) joined by a mesh background, made in Ireland from the 1840s in imitation of costly needle lace.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 5.1 (grade 6–8)
ironingEnglish
Sliding the iron back and forth to smooth wrinkles out of finished clothes.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 4.3 (grade 3–5) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.5 (grade 9–12)
Isaac SingerEnglish
An American inventor who built a sewing machine in 1851. His company soon sold sewing machines to families for their homes.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 4.4 (grade 9–12)

J

Jacquard loomEnglish
A loom with an attachment, invented by Joseph-Marie Jacquard, that uses a chain of punched cards to lift warp threads for a pattern.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 2.3 (grade 3–5)
Jacquard mechanismEnglish
A device on top of a loom that lifts each warp end separately according to holes punched in a chain of cards, allowing any woven pattern.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.3 (grade 9–12)
jersey (single knit)English
A weft knit with knit stitches on the face and purl bumps on the back; it curls at the edges and can run.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.4 (grade 9–12)
join as you goEnglish
Connecting a new square to a finished one by slip-stitching into its chain spaces during the last round.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 5.3 (grade 6–8)
join in the roundEnglish
Knitting the first cast-on stitch after the last one, so the row becomes a circle.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 6.2 (grade 6–8)
joining yarnEnglish
Starting a new ball of yarn at the beginning of a row and weaving both tails in later.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 6.3 (grade 3–5) · Threads & Weaving, Lesson 6.2 (grade 9–12)
JosephEnglish
A son of Jacob in the Bible, who was given a coat of many colors.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 8.4 (grade 9–12)
Junior Red CrossEnglish
The part of the American Red Cross for schoolchildren, begun in 1917. Its members knitted, sewed and collected supplies to help others.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 6.3 (grade 3–5)
jute webbingEnglish
A strong woven strap, usually 3½ in wide, made of jute fiber, stretched across a seat frame.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.3 (grade 9–12)

K

k2p2English
Knit 2, purl 2, repeated across. Worked over a multiple of 4 stitches (plus 2 on flat pieces, to make both edges match).
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 6.1 (grade 6–8)
kick pleatEnglish
An inverted pleat at a corner or along a side that lets a tailored skirt bend neatly.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.5 (grade 9–12) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.4 (grade 9–12)
knifeEnglish
The blade in a serger that trims the seam allowance just before the stitch forms.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.4 (grade 9–12)
knife-edge pillowEnglish
The simplest decorative pillow: two flat pieces seamed around the edge, so the finished edge is thin like a blade.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.1 (grade 9–12)
knit fabricEnglish
Fabric made of rows of loops pulled through loops, like a T-shirt or a sweater. It stretches and does not fray much.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 2.4 (grade 3–5) · Threads & Weaving, Lesson 2.3 (grade 9–12)
knit stitch (k)English
The basic stitch: needle in from front to back, wrap the yarn, pull the loop through, slip the old stitch off.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 6.2 (grade 3–5)
knit your bitEnglish
A saying during World War I that asked Americans to knit warm things for soldiers.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 6.4 (grade 9–12)
knitting spoolEnglish
A tube with pegs on top for knitting a round cord. It is also called a French knitter or knitting Nancy.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 6.3 (grade 9–12)

L

labor valueEnglish
The worth of your hours, used to compare making with buying.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.4 (grade 9–12)
lacing cardEnglish
A stiff card with holes around a shape, made for lacing.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 3.1 (grade 9–12)
laid and couched work (Bayeux stitch)English
A filling stitch: long threads are laid side by side across a shape, then held down by crossing threads tacked with tiny stitches.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 3.4 (grade 6–8)
lambrequinEnglish
A shaped top treatment that comes down the sides of the window, often stiffened or decorated; popular in Victorian homes.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.2 (grade 9–12)
lapped zipperEnglish
A zipper hidden under a fold of fabric that laps over it from one side.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.2 (grade 9–12) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.3 (grade 9–12)
lashing heightEnglish
The planned compressed height of the springs once tied.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.2 (grade 9–12)
latch needleEnglish
A needle with a tiny hinged latch that closes the hook by itself. Patented by Matthew Townsend of Leicester in 1849, it made fast knitting machines possible.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 6.4 (grade 6–8)
layer chartEnglish
A record of every layer found, in order, with materials and condition.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.2 (grade 9–12)
lead paintEnglish
Paint containing lead, common on furniture before the late 1970s; its dust is harmful, especially to children.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.2 (grade 9–12)
leaf and seed fibersEnglish
Leaf fibers (sisal, abaca or Manila hemp) come from long leaves and make rope; seed and fruit fibers include cotton, kapok and coir from coconut husks.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.5 (grade 9–12)
lengthen/shorten lineEnglish
A double line printed on a pattern piece where it can be cut and spread or folded to change its length.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.1 (grade 9–12) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.4 (grade 9–12)
lengthwise grainEnglish
The direction of the warp, parallel to the selvage. It stretches least and is the “straight grain” on a pattern’s grainline arrow.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 2.2 (grade 6–8)
lift cordEnglish
A cord that raises a working shade; any reachable loop or long dangling end is a strangulation hazard.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.1 (grade 9–12)
lift overEnglish
Pulling the bottom loop up and over the top of the finger, so it slips off behind.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 6.1 (grade 9–12)
lifterEnglish
A tool for lifting the bottom loop over the peg, like a craft stick or a big blunt needle.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 6.3 (grade 9–12)
line and towEnglish
Line: the long, parallel flax fibers spun into fine linen. Tow: the short fibers combed out, spun into coarser yarn.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.4 (grade 9–12)
linen testerEnglish
A small folding magnifier with an opening of exactly ¼ inch, ½ inch or 1 inch, made for counting threads in cloth.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 2.3 (grade 6–8)
linen tester (pick glass)English
A small folding magnifier with a 1-inch or ½-inch window for counting yarns.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.3 (grade 9–12)
liningEnglish
A plain fabric sewn behind the face fabric to protect it, block light, add body and help insulate.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 7.2 (grade 6–8) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.4 (grade 9–12)
lintEnglish
The cotton fibers after the seeds have been taken out.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 1.1 (grade 3–5) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.1 (grade 9–12)
lint turnoutEnglish
The weight of lint ginned from a load of seed cotton, as a percent of that load's weight.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.1 (grade 9–12)
live stitchEnglish
A loop still on the needle that has not been finished. If it slips off, it can run down the fabric.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 6.1 (grade 3–5)
long-tail cast onEnglish
A cast on that uses a long tail of yarn over the thumb and the working yarn over the finger to make neat, stretchy first stitches.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 6.1 (grade 3–5)
loom widthEnglish
The width of cloth a loom can weave; ancient garments were planned from whole woven pieces with little cutting.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.1 (grade 9–12)
looperEnglish
A curved, needle-less arm in a serger that carries thread around the edge of the fabric to form the overcast.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.4 (grade 9–12)
lyocellEnglish
A regenerated cellulose fiber spun from a solution in a recyclable organic solvent; stronger when wet than ordinary rayon.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.1 (grade 9–12)

M

madderEnglish
A plant (Rubia tinctorum) whose roots give alizarin, the source of reds from Turkey red to the British soldier's coat.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.1 (grade 9–12)
Make Do and MendEnglish
A British government campaign and pamphlet of 1943 teaching families to repair, remake and care for clothing during wartime rationing.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.2 (grade 9–12)
make-or-buy decisionEnglish
Comparing the full cost, quality and fit of sewing a garment with buying a similar one.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.4 (grade 9–12)
mantle (cloak)English
A large rectangular outer garment worn over the tunic by day and used as a blanket at night.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.1 (grade 9–12)
mantua-makerEnglish
A dressmaker who made women’s gowns in the 1700s.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 8.3 (grade 6–8) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.4 (grade 9–12)
mattress stitchEnglish
An invisible seam for joining knitted edges, worked by catching the bars between stitches on each side in turn.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 6.1 (grade 6–8)
mauveineEnglish
The first synthetic dye sold commercially, discovered by William Perkin in 1856, a purple made from aniline derived from coal tar.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.2 (grade 9–12)
measurement cardEnglish
A card where your measurements are written down so a garment can be made to fit.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 8.1 (grade 3–5) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.2 (grade 9–12)
medullaEnglish
A hollow or air-filled core in some animal fibers; it makes the fiber lighter and adds insulation.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.4 (grade 9–12)
melt spinningEnglish
Making fiber by melting polymer chips, pumping the liquid through a spinneret, and cooling the streams into continuous filaments, which are then stretched (drawn) to line up the chains and multiply the strength.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 1.4 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.2 (grade 9–12)
mendingEnglish
Repairing clothes or linens so they can be used again: sewing on buttons, closing seams, fixing hems and patching holes.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 3.3 (grade 3–5)
mercerizationEnglish
Treating cotton with a strong solution of sodium hydroxide, usually under tension, then washing and neutralizing it, which swells the fibers and makes them rounder, stronger, more lustrous and more absorbent of dye.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.3 (grade 9–12)
merinoEnglish
A breed of sheep, first developed in Spain, prized for very fine, dense, crimpy wool.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.2 (grade 9–12) · Grade 4 Spanish, Lesson 4.2 (grade 4)
metric count (Nm)English
Kilometers of yarn per kilogram (or meters per gram).
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.4 (grade 9–12)
microfiberEnglish
A fiber finer than 1 denier per filament, thinner than the finest silk.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.5 (grade 9–12)
micron (µm)English
One millionth of a meter, or one thousandth of a millimeter: the unit for wool fiber diameter. Fine merino is about 17–21 µm; a human hair is several times thicker.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.2 (grade 9–12)
mill girlEnglish
One of the young women, most from New England farms, who worked in the Lowell textile mills in the 1820s–1840s and lived in company boardinghouses.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 2.1 (grade 6–8)
mill girlsEnglish
The young, mostly unmarried farm women from New England who worked in the Lowell mills in the 1820s–1840s and lived in company boarding houses.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.3 (grade 9–12)
millinerEnglish
A shopkeeper who sold and made caps, aprons, cloaks, trims and accessories, and often fabric and ready-made small goods.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 8.3 (grade 6–8) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.4 (grade 9–12) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.4 (grade 9–12)
mitered cornerEnglish
A neat diagonal fold at a hem corner that removes bulk.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.4 (grade 9–12) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.5 (grade 9–12)
mob capEnglish
A soft cap of linen or cotton gathered around the head with a frill, worn indoors by women and girls in the 1700s and early 1800s.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 8.3 (grade 6–8)
mob (mop) capEnglish
A round cap of linen or cotton gathered to fit the head, worn indoors by women and girls in the 1700s and 1800s.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.4 (grade 9–12)
modesty adaptationsEnglish
Raising necklines, adding sleeves, lengthening hems and adding facings or linings to a pattern.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.1 (grade 9–12)
mohairEnglish
The long, lustrous fiber of the Angora goat, with smooth, flat scales that give shine and resist felting.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.4 (grade 9–12)
moisture regainEnglish
The percentage of its dry weight in water vapor a fiber takes up from ordinary air. Wool is about 15%, cotton about 8%, nylon about 4%, polyester under one percent.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 1.4 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.2 (grade 9–12)
mood boardEnglish
A composed collection of images, colors and textures that communicates the intended feeling of a room before anything is bought or sewn.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 1.5 (grade 9–12)
mordantEnglish
A metal salt, most often alum (potassium aluminum sulfate), applied to fiber so that a dye can bind to it firmly through the metal.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.1 (grade 9–12)
motif centeringEnglish
Placing the cover so its main motif sits in the center of the seat.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.5 (grade 9–12)
motif placementEnglish
Centering a pattern's main motif on the seat, back or top.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.2 (grade 9–12)
mounting boardEnglish
The wooden strip the shade is stapled to and screwed to the window frame or wall.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.1 (grade 9–12)
mounting (French) cleatEnglish
Two strips of wood cut at 45° that interlock to hang a panel securely on a wall.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.5 (grade 9–12)
mulberryEnglish
The tree whose leaves are the silkworm’s favorite (and almost only) food.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 1.3 (grade 9–12)
muslin (toile)English
A test version of a garment sewn in cheap fabric to check the fit before cutting the real fabric.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 8.4 (grade 6–8) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.1 (grade 9–12) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.4 (grade 9–12)
muslin undercoverEnglish
An optional plain cotton layer stapled over the padding before the final cover, to shape it.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.4 (grade 9–12) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.3 (grade 9–12)

N

napEnglish
A one-way surface or design (pile, brushed fabric, one-way print) that looks different upside down; all pieces must point the same way.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.3 (grade 9–12)
neckEnglish
The part of the tassel where yarn is wrapped tight, just below the top.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 5.3 (grade 9–12)
needle laceEnglish
Lace built stitch by stitch with a needle and thread, usually buttonhole stitches over a framework of threads.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.5 (grade 9–12)
needle plateEnglish
The metal plate under the needle, with a hole for the needle and lines that measure the seam allowance. Also called the throat plate.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 4.1 (grade 3–5)
needle sizeEnglish
The thickness of a knitting needle, given in U.S. numbers and millimeters. A US 8 needle is 5 mm thick.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 6.1 (grade 3–5) · Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 4.1 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.1 (grade 9–12)
needle-punched and spunlaceEnglish
Needle-punched nonwovens are tangled by barbed needles; spunlace (hydroentangled) nonwovens by fine water jets.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.5 (grade 9–12)
negative easeEnglish
Making a hat a little smaller than the head, usually 1 to 2 inches, so the stretchy fabric holds snugly.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 5.4 (grade 6–8) · Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 6.2 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.2 (grade 9–12)
nest the seamsEnglish
Pressing seams in opposite directions in neighboring rows so they lock together and the corners match.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 7.3 (grade 3–5)
nine-patchEnglish
A quilt block made of nine squares, three rows of three.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 7.3 (grade 9–12)
nonwovenEnglish
A fabric made directly from fibers or filaments bonded by friction, heat, adhesive or entanglement, without spinning yarn.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.5 (grade 9–12)
notches and dotsEnglish
Small triangles and circles on pattern edges and inside pieces that match pieces together and mark details; they are transferred to the fabric.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.3 (grade 9–12)
notionsEnglish
The small supplies a pattern needs besides fabric: thread, buttons, zipper, elastic, interfacing, trim.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.1 (grade 9–12)
nylonEnglish
A very strong, smooth synthetic fiber first made by Wallace Carothers’s team at DuPont in 1935.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 1.4 (grade 3–5) · Threads & Weaving, Lesson 1.4 (grade 9–12)

O

off-grainEnglish
Fabric whose crosswise threads are not at right angles to the lengthwise threads; garments cut off-grain twist and hang badly.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.3 (grade 9–12)
oleophilicEnglish
Oil-loving. Polyester attracts and holds oily soils and body oils, which is why polyester can keep odors.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.3 (grade 9–12)
one-step buttonholeEnglish
A machine buttonhole sewn automatically to the button's size, using a buttonhole foot that holds the button.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.5 (grade 9–12)
optimum twistEnglish
The amount of twist that gives a staple yarn its greatest strength; less lets fibers slip, more tilts them away from the load.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.2 (grade 9–12)
order of constructionEnglish
The sequence in which a garment's seams and details are sewn, planned so each step is easy and every seam can be pressed and finished.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.2 (grade 9–12)
original hem methodEnglish
Shortening jeans or pants while keeping the factory hem, by folding up a tuck above it and stitching.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.2 (grade 9–12)
ounces per square yardEnglish
The American way to give fabric weight. To convert, divide GSM by 33.9.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 2.3 (grade 6–8)
overlock stitchEnglish
A stitch that sews a seam and wraps its raw edge in thread at the same time, made by one or two needles and one or two loopers.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.4 (grade 9–12)
oxidizing bleachEnglish
Chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite) or oxygen bleach (hydrogen peroxide, sodium percarbonate), which break the color-producing parts of stain molecules.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.5 (grade 9–12)

P

pad stitchingEnglish
Small diagonal hand stitches that join canvas to cloth while the layers are rolled over the hand, building a permanent curve into lapels and collars.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.1 (grade 9–12)
paddingEnglish
The soft layers under the cover: foam, batting, or in old furniture, horsehair and cotton.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 7.4 (grade 3–5)
pageantEnglish
A play or procession that tells a story, such as the Christmas story, often performed by a church or school.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 8.3 (grade 3–5)
patchEnglish
A piece of fabric sewn over or under a hole or worn spot to cover and strengthen it.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 3.3 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.3 (grade 9–12)
pattern envelopeEnglish
The package of a commercial pattern, with pictures and line drawings, a body-measurement chart, yardage, notions and finished measurements.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 8.2 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.1 (grade 9–12)
pattern from the old coverEnglish
The old cover, flattened, used as a guide for cutting the new one.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.2 (grade 9–12)
pedalEnglish
The part on the floor that makes the machine go. The grown-up’s foot is the only foot on the pedal.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 4.1 (grade 9–12)
percaleEnglish
A tightly woven plain-weave sheeting, usually 180 thread count or more: crisp, cool and durable.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.3 (grade 9–12)
percale and sateenEnglish
Two common sheet constructions: percale is a crisp plain weave (at least 180 count); sateen is a smooth, lustrous satin-type weave.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.3 (grade 9–12)
percentage systemEnglish
Elizabeth Zimmermann’s method of planning a sweater: measure the body, figure the number of stitches with gauge, and make every other part a set percentage of that number.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 6.3 (grade 6–8)
period silhouetteEnglish
The overall outline of the clothing of a time: long and loose, fitted and full-skirted, and so on.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.1 (grade 9–12)
perle cottonEnglish
A mercerized, tightly twisted, non-divisible cotton thread used for embroidery, prized for its sheen.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.3 (grade 9–12)
piece listEnglish
Every piece of the slipcover with its cut size and how many to cut.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.2 (grade 9–12)
pieced (patchwork) quiltEnglish
A quilt whose top is sewn together from many smaller pieces, usually in blocks.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.1 (grade 9–12)
pillowEnglish
A soft cloth cover filled with stuffing, for resting your head or leaning against.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 7.1 (grade 9–12)
pillow formEnglish
The stuffed inner pillow that goes inside a cover. Forms are sold by size, such as 14 or 16 inches square.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 7.1 (grade 3–5)
pillow form (insert)English
The filled inner pillow that the decorative cover slips over; sold by its flat size, such as 18 × 18 in.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.1 (grade 9–12)
pinch pleatEnglish
A group of two or three small folds stitched together at the top of a drape and tacked at the base, spaced evenly across the heading.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.5 (grade 9–12)
pin-fittingEnglish
Pinning fabric directly on the furniture along the seam lines to fit it.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.3 (grade 9–12)
pinkingEnglish
Cutting an edge in a zigzag with pinking shears, so the short yarn ends fray less.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 2.4 (grade 6–8)
place on foldEnglish
A bracket arrow showing that an edge of the piece goes exactly on the fold of the fabric, so it is cut double width with no seam.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 8.2 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.3 (grade 9–12)
plain seamEnglish
Two layers sewn right sides together along the seam line, then pressed open or to one side.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.3 (grade 9–12)
plain weaveEnglish
The simplest weave: over one, under one, then the opposite on the next row.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 2.2 (grade 3–5) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.1 (grade 9–12)
pleat allowanceEnglish
The total width of fabric taken up by pleats: flat width minus finished width.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.5 (grade 9–12)
plied yarnEnglish
Two or more singles twisted together, usually in the opposite direction from their own twist; 2-ply, 3-ply and so on.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.5 (grade 9–12)
ply-inflated countEnglish
A thread count that counts each ply of a plied yarn separately, making the number larger than the yarns actually present.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.3 (grade 9–12)
plywood baseEnglish
A modern alternative to webbing for drop-in seats: a ½-in board with air holes, padded with foam.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.3 (grade 9–12)
polka dotsEnglish
Round dots spaced evenly across the cloth.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 8.1 (grade 9–12)
polyesterEnglish
A strong, quick-drying synthetic fiber that resists wrinkles. It is the most common fiber in clothing today.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 1.4 (grade 3–5) · Threads & Weaving, Lesson 1.4 (grade 9–12)
polyester batting (Dacron)English
A soft layer wrapped over foam to round edges, fill the cover and reduce friction.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.4 (grade 9–12)
polyester (PET)English
Polyethylene terephthalate: a synthetic polymer of terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol joined by ester links; the most widely used manufactured fiber.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.3 (grade 9–12)
polymerEnglish
A very long molecule made of many small pieces linked together in a chain, like a string of paper clips.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 1.4 (grade 3–5) · Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 1.4 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.2 (grade 9–12)
pom-pomEnglish
A fluffy ball made of many short pieces of yarn tied tight in the middle.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 5.4 (grade 9–12)
pom-pom makerEnglish
A piece of cardboard (or a plastic tool) that the yarn is wrapped around.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 5.4 (grade 9–12)
presetEnglish
Laying out a costume offstage, opened and in order, ready for a quick change.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.2 (grade 9–12)
preshrinkEnglish
To wash and dry fabric before sewing so it shrinks first, not after it is sewn to something.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 3.3 (grade 6–8)
preshrinkingEnglish
Washing and drying fabric (and cord) before cutting, the way the finished cover will be cleaned, so it will not shrink later.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.5 (grade 9–12) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.3 (grade 9–12)
press clothEnglish
A cloth laid between iron and fabric to prevent shine, scorching and melting.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.5 (grade 9–12)
pressingEnglish
Lifting the iron and setting it down on one spot at a time, to flatten a seam or a fold without stretching the fabric.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 4.3 (grade 3–5) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.5 (grade 9–12)
puckerEnglish
Small wrinkles in fabric caused by pulling stitches too tight.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 3.2 (grade 3–5)
pull throughEnglish
Pulling the hook, with its new loop, back through the loop on the hook.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 5.2 (grade 9–12)
pullingEnglish
Drawing the cover tight over the padding, on grain, before stapling.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.5 (grade 9–12)
purl stitch (p)English
The knit stitch made from the back: yarn in front, needle into the stitch from back to front, wrap, pull through, slip off. Its bump faces you.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 6.4 (grade 3–5)
purple and scarletEnglish
Costly dyes in the ancient world; purple came from sea snails, so purple cloth marked wealth and royalty.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.1 (grade 9–12)

Q

quarter-inch seamEnglish
The standard quilting seam allowance, ¼ in from the raw edge.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.2 (grade 9–12)
quick changeEnglish
A costume change that must happen in very little time offstage.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.5 (grade 9–12)
quilt labelEnglish
A small fabric label on the back with the maker, the recipient, the date and the place.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.5 (grade 9–12)
quilt sandwichEnglish
The three layers of a quilt: top, batting and backing, held together by quilting stitches or ties.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 7.3 (grade 6–8)
quilting distanceEnglish
The farthest apart quilting lines may be spaced for a given batting, printed on its package.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.4 (grade 9–12)

R

railroadingEnglish
Running decorator fabric sideways (selvage horizontal) so wide pieces like sofa backs can be cut without seams.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 1.4 (grade 9–12) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.2 (grade 9–12) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.2 (grade 9–12)
ramieEnglish
A lustrous, very strong bast fiber from a nettle-family plant, sometimes called China grass; hard to process and brittle when folded.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.5 (grade 9–12)
rayonEnglish
A fiber made by people from cellulose, usually from wood pulp. It is soft and drapes well, like silk or cotton.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 1.4 (grade 3–5)
reed and beatingEnglish
The reed is a comb that spaces the warp; beating presses each new pick against the woven cloth.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.1 (grade 9–12)
reelingEnglish
Unwinding the filaments from softened cocoons, several together, onto a turning wheel to make raw silk thread.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 1.3 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.5 (grade 9–12)
regenerated fiberEnglish
A fiber made by dissolving a natural polymer (usually cellulose from wood) and re-forming it as filaments. Rayon, modal, lyocell and acetate are made this way.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.1 (grade 9–12)
relaxation shrinkageEnglish
Shrinkage from the release of tension put into yarns and fabric during manufacture; it happens in the first wash or two and then stops.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.3 (grade 9–12)
rentEnglish
An old word for a tear or rip in cloth, as in Mark 2:21.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 3.3 (grade 6–8)
repeat (rep) and *English
Work the steps between the asterisks (or in the brackets) again, as many times as the pattern says.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 5.3 (grade 3–5)
residual shrinkageEnglish
The shrinkage a fabric still has left after finishing; low residual shrinkage is the goal of preshrinking.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.4 (grade 9–12)
resizeEnglish
To recalculate a pattern’s numbers for a different gauge or size.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 6.3 (grade 6–8)
rettingEnglish
Letting flax stems soak or lie in the dew until the soft parts rot away and the fibers come loose.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 1.3 (grade 3–5) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.4 (grade 9–12)
return tieEnglish
A tie from the second coil to the top coil of an edge spring, to crown or slant the edge.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.2 (grade 9–12)
rib knitEnglish
A weft knit alternating columns of knit and purl stitches, very stretchy crosswise and quick to spring back; used for cuffs and collars.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.4 (grade 9–12)
ribbingEnglish
Knitting in which columns of knit stitches alternate with columns of purl stitches, such as k1p1 or k2p2. It is very stretchy and pulls in.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 6.1 (grade 6–8)
riggingEnglish
Changing a costume's closures or construction so it goes on and off quickly, such as hook-and-loop hidden under false buttons.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.2 (grade 9–12)
right side (RS) and wrong side (WS)English
The side meant to show, and the side meant to be inside.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 6.4 (grade 3–5)
ringEnglish
A short chain joined into a circle with a slip stitch. The first round is worked into the hole in the middle.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 5.4 (grade 3–5)
rod pocketEnglish
A tube of fabric sewn across the top of a curtain for the rod to slide through.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 7.2 (grade 3–5) · Threads & Weaving, Lesson 7.2 (grade 9–12) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.2 (grade 9–12)
rod width (face width)English
The length of the rod from end bracket to end bracket, usually wider than the window frame.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.1 (grade 9–12)
roll lineEnglish
The line along which a lapel or collar folds back.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.1 (grade 9–12)
roller draftingEnglish
Drawing out fibers by passing them between pairs of rollers, each pair turning faster than the one before.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.2 (grade 9–12)
roller printingEnglish
Printing with engraved copper cylinders that pick up dye and print continuously; patented by Thomas Bell in 1783.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.3 (grade 9–12)
Roman shadeEnglish
A fabric shade that rises in horizontal folds as it is lifted, guided by rings and rods on the back.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.1 (grade 9–12)
rotary cutterEnglish
A round blade on a handle, rolled along a ruler on a self-healing mat to cut fabric accurately. Its guard must be closed whenever it is not cutting.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 7.3 (grade 6–8) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.2 (grade 9–12)
rotary hookEnglish
The spinning hook beneath the needle plate that catches the needle-thread loop and carries it around the bobbin case; Allen B. Wilson patented an early one in 1851.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.2 (grade 9–12)
round (rnd)English
One circle of stitches worked around the center instead of back and forth in a row. You do not turn at the end of a round; you join with a slip stitch.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 5.4 (grade 3–5)
row logEnglish
A chart in your notebook where you mark how much you knitted each day.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 6.2 (grade 9–12)
rub testEnglish
A test of how many rubs a fabric can take before it wears through. Upholstery fabrics are made to take far more rubbing than dress fabrics.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 7.4 (grade 3–5)
rub-offEnglish
Copying a well-fitting garment's shape onto paper by tracing its seams and edges without taking it apart.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.5 (grade 9–12)
ruffEnglish
A starched, pleated collar of linen, fashionable in the later 1500s.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.3 (grade 9–12)

S

S and Z twistEnglish
The direction of twist: in S twist the slant of the fibers follows the middle of the letter S; in Z twist, the middle of a Z.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.1 (grade 9–12)
sagum / paenulaEnglish
Roman cloaks: a rectangular cloak pinned at the shoulder, and a hooded cloak like a poncho.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.2 (grade 9–12)
sample (fabric) boardEnglish
The working version: actual fabric swatches, trims and paint chips for a specific room, labeled with widths, prices and jobs.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 1.5 (grade 9–12)
SanforizingEnglish
A compressive preshrinking process, patented by Sanford L. Cluett in 1930, that squeezes cloth lengthwise between a rubber belt and a heated cylinder so it will not shrink much later.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.4 (grade 9–12)
sashEnglish
A long strip of cloth tied around the waist like a belt.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 8.3 (grade 3–5)
sateenEnglish
A weave in which weft yarns float over four warp yarns, giving a smooth, lustrous face; softer and warmer than percale but more prone to pilling.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.3 (grade 9–12)
satin weaveEnglish
A weave with long floats of thread on the surface, which makes the cloth smooth and shiny but easier to snag.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 2.2 (grade 3–5) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.2 (grade 9–12)
scale ¼ in = 1 ftEnglish
The common residential drawing scale: every quarter inch on paper is a foot in the room (a 1:48 ratio).
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 1.5 (grade 9–12)
scant quarter inchEnglish
A seam a thread or two narrower than ¼ in, to make up for the fold taken by pressing.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.2 (grade 9–12)
scarfEnglish
A long strip of warm fabric worn around the neck.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 6.2 (grade 9–12) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.1 (grade 9–12)
screen printingEnglish
Pushing dye or paint through a fine mesh screen with a stencil, one screen per color; rotary screens print continuously.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.3 (grade 9–12)
script analysisEnglish
Reading the script to list characters, scenes, time, place, season and any clothing the text requires.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.5 (grade 9–12)
scutchingEnglish
Scraping and beating broken flax stems with a wooden blade to knock away the woody bits and free the fibers.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 1.3 (grade 3–5) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.4 (grade 9–12)
seam and hem allowancesEnglish
The extra width added outside the stitching line (⅝ in for seams) and below the finished hem (often 1¼–2 in).
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.5 (grade 9–12)
seam efficiencyEnglish
The strength of a seam as a percent of the strength of the unseamed fabric.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.3 (grade 9–12)
seam finishEnglish
Any way of treating the raw edges inside a seam so they do not fray: pinking, zigzag, serging, binding or enclosing them.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 2.4 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.4 (grade 9–12)
seam gaugeEnglish
A small ruler with a sliding marker for measuring hems and allowances quickly.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.2 (grade 9–12)
seam slippageEnglish
Yarns pulling away from a seam line in loosely woven fabric, leaving a gap, even though the thread has not broken.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.3 (grade 9–12)
seamlessEnglish
Woven or made in one piece with no seams. Jesus’s coat was “without seam, woven from the top throughout” (John 19:23).
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 8.4 (grade 3–5)
self-healing matEnglish
A cutting mat whose surface closes up after the blade passes.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.2 (grade 9–12)
self-weltingEnglish
Welting made from the same fabric as the cover.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.4 (grade 9–12)
sergerEnglish
A sewing machine, also called an overlock machine, that trims the edge and wraps it in thread loops so it cannot fray.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 2.4 (grade 3–5) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.4 (grade 9–12)
serger (overlock)English
A machine that sews a seam, trims the edge with a knife and wraps it in loops of thread, all in one pass, using three to five threads.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 2.4 (grade 6–8)
sericinEnglish
The natural gum that glues the cocoon together. Hot water softens it so the filament can be unwound; boiling it away later gives silk its full softness and sheen.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 1.3 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.5 (grade 9–12)
sewing clipEnglish
A small plastic clip that holds cloth together instead of a pin.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 4.2 (grade 9–12)
sewing fairEnglish
A family show where you set out the things you made and tell about them.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 8.4 (grade 9–12)
shape (silhouette)English
The outline of a garment, such as straight, A-line or full.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 8.1 (grade 6–8)
shaped panelEnglish
A tapered panel of a skirt or garment, narrower at the top, that shapes by seams instead of darts.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.1 (grade 9–12)
sheepskinEnglish
The skin of a sheep with the wool still on, used to make very warm coats.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 8.2 (grade 9–12)
short gown, petticoat and apronEnglish
A working woman's jacket-like top, full skirt and apron, with a neckerchief at the neck.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.4 (grade 9–12)
show woodEnglish
Wooden parts of a frame left uncovered and visible.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.4 (grade 9–12)
shrinkage allowanceEnglish
Extra size added when fabric cannot be preshrunk.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.5 (grade 9–12)
silkwormEnglish
A little caterpillar that eats mulberry leaves and spins silk.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 1.3 (grade 9–12)
single crochet (sc)English
A short, firm stitch: insert the hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (two loops on the hook), then yarn over and pull through both loops.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 5.2 (grade 3–5)
single-pleat cornerEnglish
A corner finished with one neat fold; used on square seat corners.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.5 (grade 9–12)
singlesEnglish
A yarn of one strand of twisted fibers.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.5 (grade 9–12)
singles and plyEnglish
A singles is one spun strand. Plying twists two or more singles together in the opposite direction, making a balanced, stronger yarn.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 2.1 (grade 6–8)
sinkerEnglish
A thin metal plate that pushes the yarn down between two needles to form a loop.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 6.4 (grade 6–8)
size chartEnglish
The table of body measurements for each pattern size, used to choose a size.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.1 (grade 9–12)
skirt liningEnglish
A lining that gives a skirt body and a clean hem, so it hangs straight.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.4 (grade 9–12)
slash and spreadEnglish
Cutting a pattern piece and spreading the pieces apart to add width or length, then redrawing smooth edges.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.4 (grade 9–12)
Slater MillEnglish
The cotton-spinning mill at Pawtucket, Rhode Island, built in 1793 by Samuel Slater and his partners, now part of a national historical park.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.3 (grade 9–12)
sleeve-cap easeEnglish
The extra length of the sleeve cap's seamline compared with the armhole, eased in smoothly so the sleeve fits over the shoulder's curve.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.4 (grade 9–12)
sliderEnglish
The Y-shaped part that moves along the zipper; its wedge pushes the teeth apart or its angled channels press them together.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 4.3 (grade 6–8)
slider and pullEnglish
The part that moves along the teeth, meshing or separating them, and the tab you hold.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.3 (grade 9–12)
slider and stopsEnglish
The slider joins or separates the two rows of teeth; stops at the ends keep it from running off.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.2 (grade 9–12)
slip stitchEnglish
A nearly invisible stitch that slides inside a fold, used to close openings and sew hems.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 3.3 (grade 3–5) · Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 3.1 (grade 6–8)
slip stitch (sl st)English
The shortest stitch: insert the hook, yarn over and pull through the stitch and the loop on the hook in one motion. Used to join and to move along without adding height.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 5.3 (grade 3–5)
slipcoverEnglish
A removable sewn cover that slips over a chair or sofa to protect it or give it a new look.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 7.4 (grade 3–5) · Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 7.4 (grade 6–8)
slipcover (loose cover, case cover)English
A removable fitted fabric cover for upholstered furniture.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.1 (grade 9–12)
snap (press stud)English
A two-part metal closure, a ball and a socket, sewn to each side of an opening and pressed together.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 3.2 (grade 6–8)
sodium hydroxideEnglish
NaOH, also called caustic soda or lye: a strong base that swells cellulose. It burns skin and eyes and is used only in industry for this purpose.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.3 (grade 9–12)
soft and hard segmentsEnglish
In spandex, long flexible soft segments that uncoil when stretched, linked by short rigid hard segments that hydrogen-bond into tie points and pull the chains back.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.4 (grade 9–12)
solution-dyedEnglish
Fiber colored while still liquid, before spinning, so the color runs all the way through; the most fade-resistant coloring, common in acrylic outdoor fabrics.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 1.4 (grade 9–12)
spandexEnglish
A synthetic fiber that can stretch to several times its length and spring back. A little is added to fabrics to make them stretch.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 1.4 (grade 3–5) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.4 (grade 9–12)
specialty hair fibersEnglish
Animal fibers other than sheep's wool: mohair, cashmere, alpaca, camel, angora rabbit and others. U.S. labels may name them specifically.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.4 (grade 9–12)
spinning muleEnglish
Samuel Crompton's machine (1779) combining the jenny's moving carriage with the water frame's rollers, able to spin fine, strong yarn.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.2 (grade 9–12)
split cornerEnglish
A skirt sewn in separate side and foot panels so the corners open around bed posts.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.5 (grade 9–12)
splittable fiberEnglish
A filament spun from two polymers (often polyester and nylon) arranged in wedges that separate after weaving or knitting into many ultra-fine fibers.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.5 (grade 9–12)
spray adhesiveEnglish
Aerosol glue for holding foam layers; used outdoors or with strong ventilation.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.4 (grade 9–12)
spring clipEnglish
A metal clip sometimes used to join spring coils.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.2 (grade 9–12)
spring constant (k)English
How stiff a spring is: the force needed to compress it one unit of length.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.1 (grade 9–12)
spring twineEnglish
Strong waxed jute or polyester twine used to tie springs.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.2 (grade 9–12)
spunbondEnglish
A nonwoven of continuous filaments laid as a web and bonded with heat, used for reusable bags, crop covers and medical gowns.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.5 (grade 9–12)
squaring upEnglish
Trimming a fabric edge exactly perpendicular to the fold before cutting strips.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.2 (grade 9–12)
stack of still airEnglish
Air trapped between layers that cannot move; still air is a good insulator.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.4 (grade 9–12)
stack-backEnglish
The space open drapes take up at the sides when pulled fully open.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.1 (grade 9–12)
standard patternEnglish
One set of instructions that everyone follows so that every finished piece is the same size and quality.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 6.3 (grade 3–5)
staple lengthEnglish
The typical length of a sample of fibers. For cotton it is measured in inches, often in thirty-seconds of an inch, or in millimeters.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.1 (grade 9–12)
stitch countEnglish
The number of stitches in a row. In a square or rectangle it stays the same in every row.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 5.2 (grade 3–5)
stitch gauge and row gaugeEnglish
Stitches per inch across, and rows per inch up. Both matter when resizing.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 6.3 (grade 6–8)
stitch in the ditchEnglish
Quilting right in the seam line between patches, so the stitching hides.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 7.3 (grade 6–8) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.4 (grade 9–12) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.2 (grade 9–12)
stitched edgeEnglish
The traditional hand-stitched roll of stuffing used before ready-made edge roll.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.3 (grade 9–12)
stockinetteEnglish
Knit every stitch on the right side and purl every stitch on the wrong side (or knit every round in the round). Smooth Vs on the front; it curls at the edges.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 6.1 (grade 6–8)
stockinette stitch (st st)English
Knit one row, purl one row. It makes smooth Vs on the front (the right side) and bumps on the back. It curls at the edges.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 6.4 (grade 3–5)
stopsEnglish
Small metal or plastic pieces at the ends of the teeth that keep the slider from running off.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.3 (grade 9–12)
straight matchEnglish
A repeat where the same motif falls at the same height on both selvages.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.3 (grade 9–12)
straight-grain vs. bias bindingEnglish
Straight-grain binding is cut across the fabric and suits straight edges; bias binding bends around curves and wears longer on the fold.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.5 (grade 9–12)
stripesEnglish
Lines of color side by side.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 8.1 (grade 9–12)
strippingEnglish
Removing the old cover, padding and fasteners down to the frame or base.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.2 (grade 9–12)
subcutEnglish
Cutting a long strip into squares or rectangles.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 7.3 (grade 6–8)
sunbonnetEnglish
A pioneer woman's cloth bonnet with a deep brim and neck curtain against the sun.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.4 (grade 9–12)
superwashEnglish
A treatment, usually chlorine followed by a thin polymer coating, that smooths or masks wool's scales so the fabric can be machine-washed without felting.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 2.3 (grade 9–12)
surcoatEnglish
A medieval outer tunic, often sleeveless, worn over the main tunic.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.2 (grade 9–12)
symbol chartEnglish
A drawing of a crochet pattern in which each stitch is shown by a symbol in the place it goes.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 5.3 (grade 6–8)
synthetic fiberEnglish
A fiber made by people from chemicals, such as nylon, polyester, acrylic and spandex.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 1.4 (grade 3–5) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.2 (grade 9–12)

T

Tabitha (Dorcas)English
A disciple in Joppa “full of good works and almsdeeds” (Acts 9:36). Tabitha is her Aramaic name and Dorcas her Greek name; both mean “gazelle.”
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 5.4 (grade 6–8)
tack lifter (staple remover)English
A forked or chisel-like tool for prying out tacks and staples.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.1 (grade 9–12)
tailored skirtEnglish
A flat skirt with inverted (kick) pleats only at the corners.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.4 (grade 9–12)
tailor's ham and seam rollEnglish
Firmly stuffed cushions used to press curved seams and darts (ham) and long seams without imprinting the allowances (roll).
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.5 (grade 9–12)
take-up leverEnglish
The arm that rises after each stitch to pull the loop up and tighten the stitch.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.2 (grade 9–12)
taking in and letting outEnglish
Making a garment smaller or larger at its seams; letting out is possible only if the seam allowance is wide enough.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.2 (grade 9–12)
tasselEnglish
A bundle of yarn strands tied together near the top, with loose ends hanging down.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 5.3 (grade 9–12)
tea or coffee dyeEnglish
A gentle household stain that tones down bright white and adds warmth.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.3 (grade 9–12)
teeth (elements)English
The small interlocking pieces on each side of a zipper. Each tooth has a bump on top and a hollow underneath that cup into the teeth on the other side.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 4.3 (grade 6–8)
tenacityEnglish
Breaking strength per unit of linear density, such as grams per denier or centinewtons per tex; it compares strength fairly across yarn sizes.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.5 (grade 9–12)
test stripEnglish
A scrap of the same fabric used to test a dye bath or technique before the costume.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.3 (grade 9–12)
Textile Fiber Products Identification ActEnglish
A 1958 U.S. law (effective 1960) requiring labels to name each fiber by its generic name and percentage by weight, the maker or seller, and the country of origin.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.5 (grade 9–12)
texturingEnglish
Crimping, coiling or looping smooth synthetic filaments with heat so the yarn becomes bulky, soft and stretchy.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.3 (grade 9–12)
thread tensionEnglish
The resistance applied to the top thread by the tension discs and to the bobbin thread by the bobbin case's spring.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 7.2 (grade 9–12)
tick, tickingEnglish
The case that holds the feathers of a pillow or featherbed, and the tightly woven cloth (usually a firm twill, often striped) made for it.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.1 (grade 9–12)
tickingEnglish
A tightly woven cotton fabric, often striped, used for the inner case of feather pillows so the quills cannot poke through.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 7.1 (grade 3–5)
tiring-houseEnglish
The Elizabethan theater's dressing room behind the stage, where actors changed.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.2 (grade 9–12)
togaEnglish
The Roman citizen's formal garment: a very large piece of wool with a curved edge, draped over the tunic.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.2 (grade 9–12)
toileEnglish
A trial version of a garment or cover in inexpensive muslin, fitted before the good fabric is cut.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.3 (grade 9–12)
toile de JouyEnglish
Fabric printed in one color on a light ground with pictorial scenes, named for the works at Jouy-en-Josas, France.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.3 (grade 9–12)
top coverEnglish
The final visible fabric of an upholstered piece.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.4 (grade 9–12)
topstitchEnglish
A visible line of stitching on the right side, close to an edge, that holds layers flat and adds strength.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 4.4 (grade 6–8)
treble crochet (tr)English
Yarn over twice, insert, pull up a loop (4 loops), then yarn over and pull through two loops three times. About three times as tall as sc.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 5.1 (grade 6–8)
tricorn (cocked hat)English
An eighteenth-century hat whose round brim is turned up and fastened in three places.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 10.4 (grade 9–12)
trim (square up)English
Cutting an oversized unit down to its exact unfinished size.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.3 (grade 9–12)
true (a seam)English
To redraw a seamline smoothly after an adjustment so matching seams are the same length.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.4 (grade 9–12)
truingEnglish
Straightening and smoothing marked seam lines with a ruler and curve after fitting.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.3 (grade 9–12)
tuck-inEnglish
Extra fabric (3–6 in) left where seat meets back or arms, tucked into the gap to hold the cover in place.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.3 (grade 9–12)
tuftingEnglish
Buttons pulled through the padding to the base, making dimples; optional decoration.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 8.5 (grade 9–12)
tunicEnglish
A simple long shirt or gown, often with no fastenings, worn in Bible times and for many centuries after.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 8.3 (grade 3–5) · Threads & Weaving, Lesson 8.3 (grade 9–12)
tunic (coat)English
The basic garment of Bible times: a long shirt of wool or linen, often reaching below the knee, belted at the waist.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.1 (grade 9–12)
tunicaEnglish
The Roman tunic, a T-shaped wool or linen garment belted at the waist, worn by nearly everyone.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.2 (grade 9–12)
turnbackEnglish
The part of the face fabric folded around to the back at the sides, so the lining does not show from the front.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.4 (grade 9–12)
turning chainEnglish
One or more chains made at the start of a row to lift the yarn up to the height of the new stitches. Single crochet uses one.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 5.2 (grade 3–5) · Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 5.1 (grade 6–8)
turns per inch (TPI)English
The number of full twists in one inch of yarn; in metric, turns per meter.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.1 (grade 9–12)
twillEnglish
A weave in which the weft goes over two or more warp threads, stepping over by one each row, making diagonal lines, as in denim.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 2.2 (grade 3–5)
twill and satinEnglish
Twill weaves pass over two or more yarns and step over one each row, making diagonal lines (denim, gabardine). Satin weaves float a yarn over four or more, making a smooth, shiny face.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 2.2 (grade 6–8)
twill tapeEnglish
A strong, flat woven tape used for ties and straps.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 8.2 (grade 3–5)
twill weaveEnglish
A weave in which each weft passes over two or more warps and the interlacings step over by one on each pick, forming diagonal lines (wales).
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.2 (grade 9–12)
twisted cast-onEnglish
A mistake in which the cast-on edge spirals around the needle before joining, so the knitting becomes a twisted tube that cannot be fixed without starting over.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 6.2 (grade 6–8)
two-at-a-time methodEnglish
Sewing two squares together ¼ in on each side of a drawn diagonal, then cutting on the line, making two HSTs.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.3 (grade 9–12)
two-hole and four-holeEnglish
Buttons may have two holes or four holes for the thread to go through.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 3.3 (grade 9–12)

U

underlayEnglish
A separate piece set behind a kick pleat instead of folding it from the skirt itself.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.4 (grade 9–12)
understitchEnglish
A line of stitching through a facing or lining and the seam allowances, close to the seam, that keeps the lining from rolling to the outside.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 4.2 (grade 6–8)
understitchingEnglish
Stitching the facing to the seam allowances close to the seam, so the facing rolls to the inside and stays hidden.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.4 (grade 9–12)
upholder (upholsterer)English
The tradesman who padded and covered seating and supplied the textiles of a house: curtains, bed hangings and wall coverings.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.1 (grade 9–12)
upholsterer (tapissier)English
A craftsman who pads and covers furniture and makes curtains and hangings. The French word is tapissier.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 7.4 (grade 6–8)
upholsteryEnglish
Padding, springs, webbing and cover fabric fastened onto the frame of a chair, sofa or stool.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 7.4 (grade 3–5)
upholstery layersEnglish
From the bottom: base (webbing or board), springs if any, padding, batting, cover, dust cover.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.1 (grade 9–12)

V

valanceEnglish
A short fabric treatment across the top of a window, hung from a rod or board, gathered, pleated, flat or swagged.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 4.2 (grade 9–12)
vat dyeEnglish
An insoluble dye, such as indigo, that is chemically reduced to a soluble form in an alkaline vat, soaked into the fiber, then oxidized back to its insoluble color in air.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.1 (grade 9–12)
vertical repeatEnglish
The distance down the fabric from one point of the pattern to the same point where the pattern starts again.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.3 (grade 9–12)
viscoseEnglish
The thick, honey-like solution of cellulose xanthate in dilute sodium hydroxide from which most rayon is spun; also a common name for rayon itself.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.1 (grade 9–12)
visible mendingEnglish
Repairs made deliberately decorative with contrasting thread or patches.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.3 (grade 9–12)

W

waistcoatEnglish
A sleeveless or sleeved garment worn by men over the shirt and under the coat; today called a vest in America.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 8.3 (grade 6–8) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 9.4 (grade 9–12)
walking footEnglish
A presser foot that feeds the top layer at the same rate as the feed dogs feed the bottom, so layers do not shift.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.4 (grade 9–12)
wardrobeEnglish
All the clothes a person has, or a cupboard to keep them in.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 8.2 (grade 9–12)
wardrobe auditEnglish
A careful inventory of clothing: what is worn, what needs care or repair, and what is missing.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.4 (grade 9–12)
warp and weftEnglish
The warp yarns run the length of the fabric and are held tight on the loom; the weft yarns cross them from side to side.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 2.2 (grade 6–8)
warp knitEnglish
A knit in which many yarns run lengthwise, each looping into its neighbors in zigzags; tricot and raschel are warp knits. They resist running.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.4 (grade 9–12)
waste factorEnglish
A percentage added to cover mistakes, shrinkage and squaring the ends.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.2 (grade 9–12)
water repellentEnglish
A finish that makes water bead and roll off the fibers while leaving spaces for air; different from waterproof, which blocks water completely with a coating or film.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.4 (grade 9–12)
wearing easeEnglish
The minimum extra room a garment needs beyond the body measurement so you can breathe, sit and move.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 8.4 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.2 (grade 9–12)
webbingEnglish
Strong woven bands stretched across a seat frame to hold up the padding.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 7.4 (grade 3–5) · Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 7.4 (grade 6–8)
webbing stretcherEnglish
A paddle-shaped lever used to pull webbing tight before stapling or tacking.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 7.3 (grade 9–12)
weft knitEnglish
A knit in which one yarn travels across, forming a row of loops (a course) that interlocks with the row below; hand knitting and most T-shirt fabric.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 5.4 (grade 9–12)
weight of fiber (WOF)English
Dyers measure dye and mordant as a percent of the dry fiber's weight: 15% WOF alum for 100 g of wool is 15 g.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 6.1 (grade 9–12)
weighted silkEnglish
Nineteenth-century silk treated with metallic salts to add weight and rustle; the salts slowly destroy the fiber, which is why so many old silk furnishings have shattered.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 1.4 (grade 9–12)
welt cordEnglish
The filler cord inside welting, sold by diameter (for example ⁵⁄₃₂ in or ¼ in), usually cotton or polyester.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.3 (grade 9–12)
welting (piping)English
A cord covered with a strip of fabric and sewn into a seam to strengthen and outline an edge.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.3 (grade 9–12)
wet spinningEnglish
Spinning a polymer solution into a liquid bath that turns it solid; rayon is wet-spun into an acid bath.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 3.1 (grade 9–12)
whole-cloth quiltEnglish
A quilt whose top is one fabric (or a few large pieces), decorated by its quilting stitches.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.1 (grade 9–12)
wickingEnglish
Moving liquid along the outside of fibers and through the gaps between them, the way athletic shirts spread sweat out to dry — different from absorbing it inside the fiber.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 1.4 (grade 6–8)
widowEnglish
A woman whose husband has died. In Bible times, many widows were poor.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 3.4 (grade 9–12)
width of fabricEnglish
The width of fabric from selvage to selvage, often about 42 to 44 inches for quilting cotton.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 4.4 (grade 3–5)
width (of fabric)English
One full selvage-to-selvage piece of fabric; curtains are planned in whole or half widths.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 3.2 (grade 9–12)
width of fabric (WOF)English
A strip cut from selvage to selvage, usually about 42 inches of usable width on quilting cotton.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 7.3 (grade 6–8) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 5.5 (grade 9–12)
work evenEnglish
Crocheting rounds with no increases or decreases, so the sides go straight down.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 5.4 (grade 6–8)
working in the roundEnglish
Crocheting in circles around a center instead of back and forth in rows.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 5.2 (grade 6–8)
worth-it testEnglish
Weighing the time and cost of an alteration against the value of the garment and how much it will be worn.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 10.2 (grade 9–12)
woven fabricEnglish
Cloth made of threads going over and under. It does not stretch much.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 2.3 (grade 9–12)
wrapEnglish
One trip of the yarn around the pom-pom maker.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 5.4 (grade 9–12)
wraps per inch (WPI)English
The number of times a yarn wraps side by side around a ruler in one inch. It tells how thick the yarn is.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 2.1 (grade 6–8) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 4.4 (grade 9–12)
wrinkle recoveryEnglish
How far a creased fabric springs back toward flat, measured as an angle (180° is complete recovery).
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 1.4 (grade 9–12)
written patternEnglish
The same instructions in words and abbreviations, such as “ch 3, 2 dc in ring, ch 2.”
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 5.3 (grade 6–8)
wrong sideEnglish
The back side of the cloth, the side that goes inside.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 4.3 (grade 9–12)
wrong side outEnglish
Fitting with the fabric's back facing out, so seams can be pinned and then sewn as fitted.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 6.3 (grade 9–12)
Wyzenbeek and MartindaleEnglish
The American test (a pad rubbed straight back and forth; results in double rubs) and the European test (a pad rubbed in a figure-eight; results in cycles). Same purpose, different machines and motions, so their numbers are not interchangeable.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 1.3 (grade 9–12)

Y

yardage chartEnglish
The table of fabric needed for each view and size in different fabric widths, with and without nap.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 8.1 (grade 9–12)
yarn overEnglish
Wrapping the working yarn over the hook from back to front.
Threads & Weaving, Lesson 5.2 (grade 9–12)
yarn over (yo)English
Wrapping the yarn over the hook from back to front so the hook can catch it.
Fabrics & Sewing I, Lesson 5.1 (grade 3–5)

Z

zipper footEnglish
A narrow presser foot that sits to one side of the needle, so you can stitch close to the zipper teeth.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 4.3 (grade 6–8) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.2 (grade 9–12) · Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.3 (grade 9–12)
zipper foot (cording foot)English
A narrow foot that lets the needle stitch right beside the cord.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.3 (grade 9–12)
zipper panelEnglish
The part of the boxing, usually across the back and around the back corners, that holds the zipper.
Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.4 (grade 9–12)
zipper tapeEnglish
The woven fabric strips the teeth are attached to; you sew through the tape, not the teeth.
Fabrics & Sewing II, Lesson 4.3 (grade 6–8) · Home Décor, Costume & Upholstery, Lesson 2.2 (grade 9–12)
zipper tape and teethEnglish
The woven fabric strips on each side, and the interlocking elements (metal teeth, molded plastic teeth or a continuous coil) attached to them.
Textile Science & Clothing Construction, Lesson 9.3 (grade 9–12)